Saturday, June 30, 2007

[trip] Hellhole MDR Surveys

This weekend was my first trip of this season into Hellhole. I drove solo from Morgantown on Friday night, arriving at the new GVKS fieldhouse (version 3.0) at 11:30pm. I was promptly hit up for cash by Miles, then he gave me a "tour" of the cave via lineplots and survey sketches, filling me in on our tasks for the week. Two teams were to head back to the MDS survey from last week; one team would survey the virgin pits which were discovered there (Yvonne Droms, Mark Minton, Heather Levy), one team would survey the horizontal leads (Miles Drake, Rick Royer, myself - Dave Riggs). I hung my hammock from two suitable trees behind the fieldhouse and spent a large part of the night listening to dogs (coyotes?) howling and barking in the distance.

At the ungodly hour of 08:00, I groggily opened one eye just in time to catch Heather sneaking up on my hammock with a very large stick, apparently trying to wake me up as if I were a piƱata. We promptly left for breakfast, opting to try the 4-U Restaurant with the thought that they were open and quick (we were half right).

An hour later, we were at the cave and gearing up. Rick and Heather rigged the entrance, and the vertical team dropped in and headed on their way. Our horizontal team rappelled in and started traveling at approximately 10:15. We headed down the Corkscrew, down the 90 foot "rappel" (which Miles and Rick arm-wrapped, I chose to use my microrack instead), through Bob's Big Break Borehole, and turned right to the JD Rotunda drops.

I visited Hells Kitchen last year, and don't remember taking the same route which we took today. We encountered the vertical team waiting for us after losing the way on. Miles led us through a series of stoops and crawls, over a 6 foot deep incision in the floor, and we turned sharp left and up instead of out over a pit (EAS?) with a good echo. An 8 foot climb-up popped us out into a junction room with several leads going off from it.

After a quick break, the six of us headed to Hells Kitchen, then up through the dry, gypsum-encrusted FRK and SPN surveys. Yvonne pointed out a crevice in the floor at the SPN survey where dropped rocks appear to bounce down for many tens of feet. The SPN passage kept getting smaller and smaller until we were finally popped out into a deep but narrow canyon passage, MDS. I believe that it took us around 4.5 hours to get back to this section.

Our team started surveying a lead at MDS28, a sloping bank of rather large cobbles up and to the right of the main canyon. We called the survey MDR (Miles, Dave, Rick). The passage first got rather low, and then opened up to a vertical-walled chamber 15 - 20 feet high, 6 feet wide and 20 feet long. I climbed up to check a potential high lead and a good fist-sized hand hold came loose and bounced off my head; this high route was too tight, but we would later survey this upper level from another lead.

We surveyed down into a canyon slot in the floor, Rick and I both trying several ways before finally squeezing our way through. We were in a small breakdown chamber walled by a delicately-balanced slope of large cobbles and breakdown debris. An enlarged vertical joint in the floor dropped at least 8 feet, but several minutes of hammering opened it up enough to see that it'd be a mining project to push it for little gain.

From the "big" chamber, we followed a second canyon lead up over more cobbles to a tall and narrow canyon. Rick did an impressive squeeze/climb up over a surfboard-shaped rock to an even higher, vertical-walled chamber. We did a survey shot through an impassable crevice rather than try to survey up the climb. From this higher small chamber, I climbed up to peer into another even higher passage, which was walled by terminal breakdown and cobbles. MDS28 lead killed, approximately 160 feet surveyed.

We headed back out into the main MDS canyon and proceeded to knock rocks down towards the unsuspecting vertical team below. At their request ("NOOO ROOOCKS!") we halted until they could take cover, then leapfrogged them to check out a low, tight lead up at the canyon ceiling. Though discontinuous with the previous lead, we called the entire day's survey MDR. Rick headed in to scope it out, and discovered (as per Miles's intuition) and very nice pit. I headed in next with our 50 foot tape, dropped it down and could see that it was too short to reach the bottom (my estimate was 60 - 70 feet deep). Hmmm. We interrupted the other team, swapped our 50 foot tape for their 100 foot tape, and Miles crawled in to tape the pit - 51.5 feet. Hrmph. Lead killed, approximately 70 feet surveyed (mostly vertical).

It was at this point that I noticed something particularly odd about Rick. Every time that we'd take a short break, he'd dig into his modestly-sized pack and produce a roast beef sandwich. He appeared to be on his 6th or 7th sandwich of the evening, with no end in sight. I'm not sure which was more impressive - his appetite, or his "bottomless" pack.

Our group back-tracked further along the main MDS canyon to MDS14, where the canyon meanders low and takes a different route than the higher canyon level. We surveyed downstream through the narrow and frequently-awkward lower canyon. This passage meanders very regularly and very tightly, our shots averaged about 9 - 10 feet per bend. The passage was very dry, and gypsum crystal was abundant on much of the walls. We were forced down to floor level, stooping, and generally confined to a small space. Shot after shot, the meandering canyon was relentless, eventually pinching so narrow that a rather modest-sized piece of breakdown prevented us from continuing. Miles, from the upstream direction, climbed up to the ceiling, where fragmented rock rained down on us from above. He was unable to continue on at this level. We shot 15 stations for around 125 feet, lead killed.

We communicated with the vertical team, below us on the SRT level, and tried to work out a plan for derigging their pits and give them directions to head out. Communication problems abounded, and it was eventually decided that we'd abandon our final lead and follow them out. We descended one of their pits, rigged with 9mm PMI on a bouncy webbing runner. The rope rubs at two spots near the top, and should probably be padded if it is to remain rigged.

After a ledge traverse and a bit of boulder hopping, we were quickly back to the junction room - having cut out the entire KNF, FRK, Hells Kitchen area - a nice time-saver. We headed back out towards the JD Rotunda climbs and followed our route towards the entrance. At the 90 foot slope, Miles and Rick took the bypass climb, while I ascended the slope - we reached the top at almost exactly the same time. I'm not a fan of the bypass climb, and was feeling pooped at this point.

At the entrance room (around 4am), we found that the vertical team had already ascended, and the North team (Bob, Jo, Cullen) was now starting to exit the cave. I needed a rest before climbing out, so we let them climb first. A 10-minute nap completely refreshed me, and Rick and I frogged out quickly after Bob and Jo had reached the top, leaving Miles to ascend out last. I was topside by 05:15, just as night was turning to dawn. Since Brian's "lost in borehole" photo team was still in the cave, I opted to stay at the entrance until they had exited. I waited patiently for them (with both eyes closed) until they emerged after 07:00 Sunday morning, helped them derig the ropes, and we went to breakfast again at the 4-U (where both Brian and Mary fell asleep at the table). I drove to Spruce Knob to get the WV highpoint, where I took another nap before driving back home to Morgantown.

We surveyed around 350 feet, killed 3 leads, and were underground for approximately 19 hours.

Saturday, June 23, 2007

[trip] Windy Slope Cave Dig

I did a podcast trip report from our digging trip into the newest significant cave in the Cheat Canyon, Windy Slope Cave. You can listen to the 15 minute report on PodCaver.

We got to explore the largest passage discovered in the Canyon since New Years Day Cave, and it goes for well over 1000 feet. Our digging efforts paid off - I was able to make the first ever through trip from the Fichtner entrance to the water entrance of Windy Slope Cave.

Link: Windy Slope Dig PodCast


Dave Riggs, Brian Masney, and Doug McCarty in front of the Wet Entrance of Windy Slope Cave. Photo by John Harman.

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

[trip] Deckers Creek Pits

This evening, Brian Masney and I headed to Deckers Creek to "survey" a few pits. Real pits are rare in Northern WV, and even more so in Monongalia County. Several are clustered along Deckers Creek where water manages to enlarge limestone joints and then fall far enough to start cutting down into the rock.

We started with a pit that I discovered last year, called Jumbo Shrimp Pit. Brian rappelled down first, and we taped the pit at 27.1 feet from the lip, 28.5 feet from the bottom of the small sink. The floor has a pile of leaves and debris several feet high. The cave is essentially a single solutionally-widened joint which bells out to 4 feet wide at the bottom. I took a couple survey shots and we both sketched the inside of the cave before ascending out.


Dave Riggs rappels into the (new) deepest known pit in Monongalia County. Photo by Brian Masney.

Next we hiked over to Nuttinbuttawett Pit, which Garton published as 25 feet deep. We dropped the pit and taped it at 19.3 feet from the lip. This cave appears to have formed where two fractures intersect, and an old floor and drain are visible about halfway down. While not as deep or long as the new pit, at least this pit bells out wide enough to form a real room. One thin layer of shaley-limestone had lots of very large crinoid fossils. Luckily the pit was only taking a small amount of water today, so we didn't get soaked. I did a rough sketch of the pit and we climbed back out.


Dave Riggs ascends out of Nuttinbuttawett Pit, after stripping it of its coveted first-place title. Photo by Brian Masney.

Now nearing dark, we spent a few minutes trying to find the pit that Greg Springer described as Itsatightone Pit. Brian found a very small but steeply-walled sinkhole and within minutes had exposed a limestone joint about 8 inches wide in the bottom. We were able to peer at least 6 feet down into it, and could hear rocks bouncing down even further, but it'd take some work and a very skinny caver to push it.


Brian Masney digs open a small sinkhole along Deckers Creek which may be Itsatightone Pit.

See also: Deckers Creek cave photos by Brian Masney

Monday, June 18, 2007

PodCaver

After scouring the web and failing to find any podcasts related to caving, Aaron Bird has decided to start his own - PodCaver. So far, he's got several hours worth of content up, including discussion with Rachel Bosch-Bird about Mammoth Cave, an interview with Mark Passerby about caving tools, technology, and methods and his work in Raders Valley, and daily reports from our recent work week in the Cheat Canyon. You may recognize Aaron from the insightful speleo-commentary that he occasionally posts here on the Speleo Log, or from his excellent print interviews in the Cave Diggers / Caves.com magazine.

Links: PodCaver Website, PodCaver on iTunes, PodCaver RSS Feed


Aaron Bird recording the next exciting installment in his state-of-the-art PodCaver Studio. Photo by Brian Masney

[trip] Pacific Northwest Lava Tubes

I recently took a two-week trip to the Pacific Northwest in order to see a part of the country that I've never yet visited. Of course I couldn't take a trip without doing a bit of caving, so I took the opportunity to check out my first lava tube caves.

In Oregon, located near the Newberry National Volcanic Monument in the Deschutes National Forest, I first visited Boyd Cave. This easily-accessed lava tube has a small entrance hole with a metal staircase leading down into over 1000 feet of easy, round passage between 10 and 20 feet tall. The cave is very dry, and small breakdown piles are found occasionally. The cave is worth seeing if you're in the area, but a bit too "bland" to warrant a trip to Bend just to visit it.


The entrance to Boyd Cave, from the inside looking up and out the small collapse entrance.

I then traveled a short distance up the road to try and visit Skeleton Cave, reported to be 3000 feet and more sporting. I arrived to find that the cave was gated and locked (supposedly for hibernating bats), despite it no longer being hibernation season. I checked out about 50 feet of low cave on the non-gated side, but could do nothing more than admire the impressive collapse sinkhole entrance of Skeleton. I had a very enjoyable night camping just outside the cave, under a full moon, in Oregon's high desert.


Large collapse sink entrance to Skeleton Cave. The bat gate is about 30 feet wide, and was locked in June.

In Washington, during a several day stay on Mt. St. Helens, I awoke early (for me) and headed into Ape Cave at 9am. Ape is probably the most-visited lava tube in the US, and its long, straight, flat and sand-floored passage makes it well-suited for this. I headed in the main entrance and went downhill, with the entire cave to myself. The hallway passages are frequently 25 feet wide and probably between 30 and 40 feet tall. It was certainly more impressive than was Boyd, but only barely.

Once to the pinch-out end, 3/4 mile from the entrance, I turned and headed back out where I met three schoolbus loads of middleschool kids going into the cave. Great. I hiked about a mile and a half to the upper entrance, stopping to check out lots of little lava bubbles and FROs (the lava equivalent of karst, I suppose) on the way, finally reaching the large collapse sinkhole at the upper entrance. Here I found a group of 8 seventh-graders with about 6 lights between the entire group, planning to head down and pop out the main entrance. Upper ape has a lot more breakdown and is a bit more sporting than lower ape. I gave them two of my spare lights and helped them navigate some of the climbs, we encountered dozens more schoolkids on the way out.


A small "lava FRO" near Ape Cave. I went in one entrance, explored about 15 feet of cave, and popped out the second entrance. The area is full of small lava bubbles like this.


Small "skylight" between the upper and lower entrances to Ape Cave, as seen from inside.

Finally, just a mile or so from Ape, I visited Lake Cave. Another beautiful basalt collapse sinkhole slopes down into stooping passage which opens to the top of a 30 - 40 feet tall lava canyon. The canyon is rigged with a ladder, which is chained and bolted to the wall. Lake was a great lava tube! The cave seems to flow down a steeper grade, occasionally with "lava falls", plenty of breakdown and climbing, and very spacious, tall lava canyon passage - probably 40 - 50 feet tall and 30 feet wide in some places. The lava walls appear to have been melted and re-melted, and dripped and flowed like molten chocolate ice cream in places. Lake Cave ends in a disappointing lava ash choke with an inches-deep pool of water - hardly a lake. This cave must have gone for over a mile, and was quite enjoyable. If you go to Mt. St. Helens, do Lake Cave instead of Ape Cave!


Scenic collapse entrance to Lake Cave. The landscape is mainly moss-covered basalt with very little topsoil.


Goopy, melted ice cream lava walls in Lake Cave. Photos can't do justice to the alien texture.

While I was impressed with the length and the passage dimensions in most of the lava tubes that I visited, the caving itself was a bit boring. Not much to see (no formations, of course), no real leads or anything beyond single-passage caves, little climbing or squeezing. However, the potential for undiscovered lava tubes of significant size is very great - they're only discovered when ceilings happen to collapse, so there's bound to be many many more to be found (or dug into). Project caving in the Pacific Northwest sounds like it could be very rewarding, but for now I'll stick to my WV stream caves!

All photos by David A. Riggs

See also: more of my lava tube photos

Saturday, June 09, 2007

[trip] Cheat Canyon Work Week Day 2

Today was the second day of the Cheat Canyon work week. Aaron and Tristen Bird, Greg Springer, and I - Dave Riggs - met at Mark's at 9AM, then drove down the hill to his pond to unload camping gear. I was spending only a half-day in the canyon, while the others were camping and working the rest of the week.

At 10AM we hiked down the hill to Lick Run, where we spent the day poking and prodding in the hopes of finding and upstream entrance to Druid Cave. We located the bottom and the top of the Loyalhanna, and found several "interesting" spots, but no definitive places where water is pirated or holes with a vacuum to match the downstream blowing holes. The dye trace definitively says that Lick Run is the source of Druid's water, but we weren't able to find it today. I hiked up the hill at 4PM, everyone else planned on remaining to dig another hour and then call it a day.

Tomorrow the group surveys virgin walking passage in the newly found cave at the extreme downstream end of Druid Cave (past the Twin Springs). I won't be sending out any more trip reports from the work week, as I'll be spending the rest of the week in Mammoth Cave!

Work Week Stats
Surveyed Cave: 96'
New Caves: 1
Virgin Cave: 110'
Participants: 5
Person Hours Worked: 57
Liters of Mountain Dew: 6?

Friday, June 08, 2007

[trip] Cheat Canyon Work Week Day 1

Today was the first day of the Cheat Canyon work week, and it's already been productive. We met around 9am at IHOP for breakfast, and were greeted with an inspiring phone call from Allen Peterson. Allen's luck for finding cave in the canyon has apparently rubbed off on us (yes, bad luck is communicable). We arrived at Mark's farm by 10:30, and Brian drove us down into the canyon by 11am. From here, we split into two teams.

Aaron and Tristen Bird, Greg Springer, and Doug McCarty headed to the new cave above the Twin Springs with the goal of enlarging the blowing lead. The cave has now been named Fichtner Cave, in honor of a great landowner who has really helped us to make progress in the canyon. Edit: The cave became the Fichtner Entrance to Windy Slope Cave.

Aaron and Doug modified some tight rock using a Hilti loaned from Rocky Parsons and the Shavers Mountain Survey - Doug preferring to create significant clearance with just a hammer. They say that just a few feet of easily-scooped silt keeps them from reaching the room at the current end of the lead. Wind howls through this passage and room.

Meanwhile, Greg walked down the hill to river level, headed upstream for less than 100 yards, and hiked up a small gully which seemed to be blowing a slight cool breeze. About 50 feet up - perhaps 10 feet lower in elevation than the nearby Fichtner Cave entrance - he pulled up a rock and was hit with a "geyser of cold air". He and Aaron dug a bit and were soon looking down the barrel of more virgin cave! Aaron crawled in the entrance hole, turned towards Fichtner Cave, and was standing in a pool in walking passage. The passage ranges from 4 to 6 feet high, 1.5 to 3 feet wide, and is completely full of water - waist-deep at its deepest. He scooped about 60 feet to verify that it goes (it goes!) and headed back out, soaked and slimed. This cave also blows cold air with serious velocity, and it is suspected to be a lower level (and second entrance) of the nearby Fichtner Cave. The gully had been inspected by everyone at one point in the past, and had previously been flowing with considerable water, but was nearly dry today. This cave will be surveyed on Sunday.

While the other group was popping rocks and scooping virgin cave, Brian and I - Dave Riggs - went to push and survey the new cave that was dug open with Allen Peterson earlier this week. Allen has aptly named the cave Original Sin Cave, because finding and digging on this karst spring in 1980 was "The Original Sin" which has doomed generations of Northern WV cavers to spend an eternity in hellish Cheat Canyon caves. Dressed only in wetsuits, kneepads, knee-high rubber boots and helmets, Brian and I became known for the day as the "Extreme Team".

I headed into the cave first, and immediately noted that the entrance pool - dubbed by us "The Hot Tub" - was much lower than it was on Monday, excellent news! We both pushed our way back into the cave to the tighter spot where I'd previously turned back. A few rocks were moved, and I was beyond and caving in soggy virgin passage again... at least, for a few tens of feet. About 100 feet in, the cave stream comes in from a parallel side passage on the right; a ledge here provides only about 7 inches of crawl space to get past. It appears that if some cemented rocks were hammered from the floor, a small caver could push beyond and follow the water upstream where it appears to open up slightly more. The passage that we were in was never more than 2 feet tall or 3 feet wide, and we were constantly in icy water. There were a few small stalactites on the ceiling, however.


Dave Riggs in monotonous 18-inch-high stream passage, Original Sin Cave, Preston County WV. The stream is perched on a layer of black shale, visible at the bottom of the cave walls. Photo by Brian Masney

We headed out to warm up and eat, then did a bit of surface examination now that we knew what the cave inside did (but found nothing but sandstone talus on the canyon wall). We then surveyed the cave - a painful effort with a two-man team laying in an icy stream in 18 inch high passage. On the way out, we noted that the Hot Tub was very noticeably deeper than it was in the morning, and we suspect that this cave may flood to the ceiling at times.

Then, almost instantly, the sky turned grey and rain poured from above. We radioed the other group, who shared their news of another new cave, and headed across the canyon to see. We arrived as they were packing up, rain still coming down. Brian drove us back to Mark's house by 6pm, where the thunderstorm raged. Not wanting to camp in the rain, everyone decided to sleep in Morgantown for the night. We meet again tomorrow morning, 9am at Mark's house.

Work Week Stats
Surveyed Cave: 96'
New Caves: 1
Virgin Cave: 110'
Participants: 5
Person Hours Worked: 30
Beers Consumed: zero!

Monday, June 04, 2007

[trip] More Virgin Cave in the Cheat Canyon

Nearly 30 years ago, Allen Peterson and his band of "druids" did some ridge walking on the South side of the Cheat River canyon and discovered an interesting karst spring below an old logging road. They very briefly dug on the spring before following its water downhill, leading to the discovery of Druid Cave. As Druid grew over the years to 2.3 miles in length, the spring above its entrance was forgotten... until dye tracing in 2007 showed that this spring plays a very interesting hydrological role in the Druid Cave system: it appears to be the downstream resurgence of New Years Day Cave, which appears to be hydrologically distinct from Druid Cave until this spring water flows into the Druid Cave entrance on the surface.

Today, Brian Masney and I met up with Allen Peterson and revisited this karst spring for the first time since the discovery of Druid Cave. Allen, in the area for a business trip, met me at the Pittsburgh airport and drove us down to Morgantown. After meeting up with Brian, shuttling vehicles around, and fighting with car problems, we were off to Masontown and started hiking down into the canyon at around 2:30pm.

On arrival, we immediately started digging in to the spring, which fanned out both horizontally and vertically along the hillside below a limestone headwall. I prodded at a small conduit with a crowbar, while Brian and Allen poked around some large moss-covered breakdown with water flowing from within. Allen moved several rocks aside and felt a strong, cool breeze - paydirt! We went at the area with our hand tools and found that this part of the hillside was completely composed of breakdown blocks, small rocks, and easily movable fill. Over the next several hours, we easily moved close to a ton of rock - exposing more airflow and a cave stream, and destabilizing some of the sketchier rocks on the hillside.

The cave passage visible inside was low and very wet; working conditions required sliding downhill and pulling rocks out while someone else tugged you out by your own boots. We spent some time stabilizing the lining rocks and removing most of the entrance slope. The only remaining barrier was the icy-cold soaking in very low, unknown passage. We all took turns trying to push the nasty entrance, but none of us made it on first attempt. Brian and I played rock paper scissors, and I lost, so I took a deep breath and scooped some nasty, wet, virgin cave.


Dave Riggs emerges soaked from the low, wet, newly dug cave above Druid Cave. Photo by Brian Masney.

The entrance pool is a six foot wide chamber where the swiftly-moving cave stream is between two and six inches deep, and air space is one foot at the highest point. A wetsuit is needed from the very start, as the water is extremely cold and one is entirely soaked immediately.

Following the cave stream to the right, one travels parallel to the Cheat River, and distinctly up-dip in a nearly-straight line. The cave passage is never more than three feet high or wide, and is a semi-circular arching stream passage. The cave stream, while only an inch or two deep, takes up the entirety of the width of the passage in most spots, and is perched on a layer of etched black shale. I continued for what seemed like seventy-five feet, until the cave passage became small enough that I'd have had to exert real effort to continue, but the airflow and water ensure more cave beyond - so long as one has a wetsuit.


Brian Masney, Dave Riggs, and Allen Peterson at the newly dug cave entrance above Druid Cave. Photo by Brian Masney.

After all these years, the very first karst feature discovered by Druid Cave explorers finally yields virgin cave to one of its original discoverers. The dye tracing results show that this new cave should be the hydrological downstream resurgence to New Years Day Cave, and the fact that it appears to be perched on a shale bed reinforces the implication that New Years Day Cave and Druid Cave are hydrologically distinct, parallel caves.

The Druid Cave saga continues...